We offer a professional inspection of your premises. Please call us now on
0203 393 2338
Get rid of Moths
There are a variety of moths we get in the home, the common clothes moth, brown house moth, case-bearing which eat clothing & carpet. The Indian meal moth found in food. Keep scrolling to learn more about the issue and contact us.
Contact us to talk further
The 4 steps to dealing with Clothes Moths
Below are the steps in more detail
Identify
First you need to identify if it is a Clothes Moth (wardrobes & carpets) or Stored Product Moth (kitchen)
Book a treatment
Don’t wait, more eggs can be laid & more damage caused costing money or having your favourite clothes ruined, call us now.
Prepare for it
There are a number of things to do to get ready for a treatment, click below to learn more
After the treatment
There are some do’s and don’ts for after to follow, click below to learn more
Identify
The aim of this section is to help you to identify what you have to make sure which type of ant it is
Moths, their eggs and caterpillar stages
Below are a number of images of what the moths and damage they cause look like. Click on the titles below to make the sections move and show you the images and learn more.
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Identify the moths you haveThis section allows you to see a number of pictures to determine what moths you have and to see examples of moth damage so you know what you have. |
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Tineola bisselliellaWebbing clothes moth, or simply clothing moth, is a species of fungus moth which feeds on the Keratin, the key structural material making up hair, nails, feathers, horns, claws, hooves, calluses, and the outer layer of skin among vertebrates. The (larve) caterpiller does the eating and damage to the natural fibres in clothing and carpet. |
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Plodia interpunctellaIs a pyraloid moth of the family Pyralidae, alternative common names are weevil moth, pantry moth, flour moth or grain moth. This moth species can be found infesting possibly the widest range of food products of any moth, from nuts to grain products (cereals) to fresh or dried fruit. |
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Hofmannophila pseudospretellaThe brown house moth, is a species of the concealer moth family, with characteristic golden-bronze wings, flecked with black, folded flat along its back. The adult is about 8mm long and prefers to run rather than fly. Feeding on wool, hair, fur, feathers, cork or debris from food such as dried fruit or cereals. |
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Tinea pellionellaThe adult moth is a pale silvery grey-brown with dark spots, and approximately 7mm long. The larva makes a portable case for itself out of wool, fur, feathers and hair. They live indoors and in outbuildings, or outdoors where they sometimes live in birds’ nests. |
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Moth Larvae or caterpillar stageThe larval stage of clothes moths are creamy-white caterpillars up to 1/2-inch long. Development time before transforming into a moth varies greatly (from one month to as much as two years), depending on temperature, food availability, and other factors. It is the larvae which does the eating of the fibres not the moth, the moth’s job is to find natural fibres to lay its eggs on and the cycle continues. |
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Moth molt or casingDevelopment time before transforming into a moth varies greatly (from one month to as much as two years), depending on temperature, food availability, and other factors. Webbing clothes moth larvae spin silken tubes or patches of webbing as they move about on the surface of infested materials. They often feed within folds of fabric and other concealed areas. As larvae graze along the surface, threadbare spots occur where fibers are removed at the base. |
Identify the moths you have
This section allows you to see a number of pictures to determine what moths you have and to see examples of moth damage so you know what you have.
Tineola bisselliella
Webbing clothes moth, or simply clothing moth, is a species of fungus moth which feeds on the Keratin, the key structural material making up hair, nails, feathers, horns, claws, hooves, calluses, and the outer layer of skin among vertebrates. The (larve) caterpiller does the eating and damage to the natural fibres in clothing and carpet.
Plodia interpunctella
Is a pyraloid moth of the family Pyralidae, alternative common names are weevil moth, pantry moth, flour moth or grain moth. This moth species can be found infesting possibly the widest range of food products of any moth, from nuts to grain products (cereals) to fresh or dried fruit.
Hofmannophila pseudospretella
The brown house moth, is a species of the concealer moth family, with characteristic golden-bronze wings, flecked with black, folded flat along its back. The adult is about 8mm long and prefers to run rather than fly. Feeding on wool, hair, fur, feathers, cork or debris from food such as dried fruit or cereals.
Tinea pellionella
The adult moth is a pale silvery grey-brown with dark spots, and approximately 7mm long. The larva makes a portable case for itself out of wool, fur, feathers and hair. They live indoors and in outbuildings, or outdoors where they sometimes live in birds’ nests.
Moth Larvae or caterpillar stage
The larval stage of clothes moths are creamy-white caterpillars up to 1/2-inch long. Development time before transforming into a moth varies greatly (from one month to as much as two years), depending on temperature, food availability, and other factors. It is the larvae which does the eating of the fibres not the moth, the moth’s job is to find natural fibres to lay its eggs on and the cycle continues.
Moth molt or casing
Development time before transforming into a moth varies greatly (from one month to as much as two years), depending on temperature, food availability, and other factors. Webbing clothes moth larvae spin silken tubes or patches of webbing as they move about on the surface of infested materials. They often feed within folds of fabric and other concealed areas. As larvae graze along the surface, threadbare spots occur where fibers are removed at the base.
What are they
The aim of this section is to help you to find where they are hiding
Where can I find them?
Below is a number of images with examples of hiding places. Click on the titles below to make the sections move to learn more.
Where could they be hiding?
The section of photos should help give you an idea of the places to be looking for them.
Food or food residue in the kitchen
Anything food related, especially with higher sugar content ie drinks, sweets, sticky liquids, fruits etc, are prime target for ants. Have a look for where they are congregating to see what needs cleaning. Also to keep things like that sealed to not attract them.
Skirting Boards & Cracks
They can get in through cracks anywhere but against skirting boards is very common. Usually the other side of the wall leads to the outside where there might be a nest either under a patio or under the foundations of the building.
Under Paving Slabs
Ants can tend to live under paving slabs in the garden. Sometimes they will stray toward the house and find a way to tunnel in and pop up in your kitchen etc. It is important if we can to destroy the nest so that they aren’t able to return.
Ants in the soil in the ground
Sometimes (but less likely as it is not as safe) ants will just make a nest in the ground. Again the excavated soil is the sign that ants are living underneath.
Where could they be hiding?
The section of photos should help give you an idea of the places to be looking for them.
Food or food residue in the kitchen
Anything food related, especially with higher sugar content ie drinks, sweets, sticky liquids, fruits etc, are prime target for ants. Have a look for where they are congregating to see what needs cleaning. Also to keep things like that sealed to not attract them.
Skirting Boards & Cracks
They can get in through cracks anywhere but against skirting boards is very common. Usually the other side of the wall leads to the outside where there might be a nest either under a patio or under the foundations of the building.
Under Paving Slabs
Ants can tend to live under paving slabs in the garden. Sometimes they will stray toward the house and find a way to tunnel in and pop up in your kitchen etc. It is important if we can to destroy the nest so that they aren’t able to return.
Ants in the soil in the ground
Sometimes (but less likely as it is not as safe) ants will just make a nest in the ground. Again the excavated soil is the sign that ants are living underneath.
Book a Treatment
If you have identified that you have them then don’t delay, call us now or have us call you. The longer you wait the more eggs can be laid and more damage will be done.
Get ready for a treatment for fabric moths
The aim of this section is to help you to inform you what to do to get ready so you’re prepared for your treatment
Prepare for a treatment (Clothes/carpet/house/case-bearing moths)
Ok so you have booked a treatment, what do you need to do to prepare for you and to help us?
Wash clothing at 60 Degrees
A 60 degree will kill everything so you need to bag up all natural fibred clothing then wash cottons & linen. Don’t forget to leave them bagged until you are clear of moths (you are only looking at around 4 weeks, you can still wear clothes, just re-wash or freeze).
Freeze Jumpers and silks
As wool and silk can’t be washed at 60 a great trick for these items is to bag (stop condensation) and freeze them in the freezer (trick – take out the drawer & put the bag in tha space). 48 hours will do the job, just remember to keep the bag sealed until the moth issue is gone.
Clear out under bed areas completely & vacuum
We need the under bed areas cleared out and empty, moths may choose under here to be as it is left alone so vacuum thoroughly. Vacuum all areas under furniture & items which aren’t moved often & against all skirting boards.
Prepare for a treatment (Indian Meal Moth - Stored Product Insect)
Ok so you have booked a treatment, what do you need to do to prepare for you and to help us?
Check things in cupboards
Go through all items in the cupboard which are open, things to check are: Flour, grains and cereal, dried fruit, spice jars. Anything open is at risk.
Look for larvae & webbing
Inside items you can see larvae, tiny eggs or possibly the webbing. If you turn items around and anything clings to part of the packet like caught in a spider’s webbing, bin it.
Clean
Clean inside, above and underneath cupboards, worktops and mop floors. As all insecticides require a P3 grade respirator during application, you will need to vacate the property, factor in being out for around 3 hours in total.
Our 5 Element Treatment Process
Most companies use just one, our treatment process consists of 5 steps – inspecting, long life insecticide, breeding & egg development control, ULV Cold Fogging (fumigation) & synthetic pheromone monitors (sticky moth pads).
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First step is lookingWe are one of the few companies to actually take the time to search all of the relevant places to find nesting sites and destroy them first. |
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We use the best Long Life Insecticide insecticide for Moths on the marketThe difference between shop bought products and professional products is mostly the residual effect (long life). Ours has a life of over nearly 3 months. |
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We use insect growth regulators or (IGR’s)We are big on using science and technology as anything clever to help our customers get rid of pests quicker and keep them gone has to be a good thing. IGR’s remove the ability for them to grow and mature normally and stop their ability to breed or some eggs not even able to hatch. Our product lasts for up to 5 months to help keep it gone afterward! |
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ULV Cold Fogging (Fumigation)There are 2 types of fumigation, smoke generated (can leave long lasting smell & discolouration to paint) & cold fogging (water based insecticide fired into tiny particles to float around to settle on walls, ceiling, cracks and crevices with no risk). We use the water based insecticide treatment. Ours lasts for 2 months with maximum effort for around 2 weeks. We would expect a refresh after 2 weeks. |
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Synthetic Pheromone Moth TrapsWe use a synthetic pheromone to attract the male moths so that when they land they stick to the glue and cannot get off. This aids with capturing some so males and females can’t come in contact but importantly it identifies which rooms and areas have moths. |
First step is looking
We are one of the few companies to actually take the time to search all of the relevant places to find nesting sites and destroy them first.
We use the best Long Life Insecticide insecticide for Moths on the market
The difference between shop bought products and professional products is mostly the residual effect (long life). Ours has a life of over nearly 3 months.
We use insect growth regulators or (IGR’s)
We are big on using science and technology as anything clever to help our customers get rid of pests quicker and keep them gone has to be a good thing.
IGR’s remove the ability for them to grow and mature normally and stop their ability to breed or some eggs not even able to hatch.
Our product lasts for up to 5 months to help keep it gone afterward!
ULV Cold Fogging (Fumigation)
There are 2 types of fumigation, smoke generated (can leave long lasting smell & discolouration to paint) & cold fogging (water based insecticide fired into tiny particles to float around to settle on walls, ceiling, cracks and crevices with no risk).
We use the water based insecticide treatment. Ours lasts for 2 months with maximum effort for around 2 weeks. We would expect a refresh after 2 weeks.
Synthetic Pheromone Moth Traps
We use a synthetic pheromone to attract the male moths so that when they land they stick to the glue and cannot get off. This aids with capturing some so males and females can’t come in contact but importantly it identifies which rooms and areas have moths.
After a treatment
A list of do’s and don’ts for after your treatment.
Open doors and windows if you feel it is needed (after the time to be out for it is safe even if you can smell a slight scent)
Do wash clothing when worn and sheets once a week at 60 degrees
Freeze everything you can’t hot wash, if worn re-freeze and keep sealed until we are clear
Wipe down any food prep areas before using.
It is important to allow the product to settle out of the air so it is safe for you to re-enter. Do not enter before it is time, once you do though it is perfectly safe to resume your life, sleep in the beds that night etc
You can use the house as normal and sleep in the beds that night onward
You don’t have to throw items away, only if you choose to for aesthetics ie holes in clothes or carpets
Frequently Asked Questions
Below are some frequently asked questions with answers to hopefully answer most of the things you want to know.
Yes, our treatments are safe. All bait is put into areas where you cannot access it and there is only risk if you consume it. If you choose a proofing appointment then you can request that no poison bait is used.
Rodents will live under properties in burrows in the soil as their behaviour tells them to do. They come in for food and nesting material (shredded paper or plastic bags) to line nests with but then leave to go back to safety. Our homes with us and pets are fraught with danger for them so they sneak in and out at night.
Usualy not no, most mice in houses are the house mouse rather than the field mouse. These live in and travel between buildings, so they are already in the walls and under the floors etc. They use the holes around pipes etc to get into your living areas.
Rodents are active during the evening, through the night and in the early morning. Due to this we do our rodent appointments (especially proofing programmes) typically during the hours of around 9-5 as we don’t want to risk trapping them in, only out.
Yes with the proofing programme we have a guarantee which is for 3 months. If there is to be a sighting you’ll know in roughly 7 days but 3 months is for peace of mind
Yes, especially worktops where food is prepared. As mice do not have waste control, it just falls out of them where ever they go, there is disease risk where ever they have been (which usually includes up on the worktops where you prepare food). Use antibacterial products for counter tops and floors etc.
Sometimes this is possible yes, call us to find out what the earliest available appointment is.
We use unmarked vehicles thereby not highlighting the reason for our visit. If anyone asks us we can say we are doing a little building work and not disclose anything.
Yes our service is insured for up to £10 Million of cover.
Yes we are RSPH Level 2 certified which is the highest level in pest management so you know you are in good hands.
Let's get in touch
Get us to call you back to talk more or book an appointment
We offer a professional inspection of your premises. Please call us now on
0203 393 2338